Stunning Smoky Cape is one of many hidden secrets along the New South Wales Coast. All photos by Serena Renner.
Driving a campervan up the east coast is a quintessential Australian experience. Almost a rite of passage. When the weather is cold in the south, hire a van — Jucy is one of the most affordable, and campers are equipped with gas stoves, battery-powered mini fridges, DVD players and stereos — and go forth, to the north. From secret beaches and swimming holes to friendly towns and memorable meals, here’s what travelers should seek out on their next road trip from Sydney to Byron Bay.
Seal Rocks and Forster
The road to Seal Rocks is a peaceful one.
For swimming, boating, surfing and snorkeling, it doesn’t get much better than the the Great Lakes region around Seal Rocks. Myall, Smiths and Wallis lakes are all popular for swimming and fishing, and surfers camp at Treachery and Booti Booti National Park to ride the uncrowded waves at Treachery, Boomerang, Blueys and Elizabeth. The south end of Blueys is also studded with clear rock pools that are great for tidepooling and snorkeling. From Elizabeth Beach, continue north on The Lakes Way for a scenic drive to Forster. Stop here for an artisan coffee and breakfast at Tartt or fish and chips at Beach Street Seafood.
Hat Head National Park
North Smoky Beach is the star of Hat Head National Park.
A deep green river valley dotted with farm houses, cows and produce stands leads to Hat Head National Park. Pick squash and cucumbers from a wheelbarrow and uphold the honor system by dropping gold coins into a metal can. Campgrounds like Hungry Gate are filled with kangaroos and butt up against seagrass-sprouting sand dunes. At the northern end of the park, Smoky Cape Lighthouse overlooks North and South Smoky beaches, where travelers can collect seashells and driftwood and escape the heat in the turquoise waters. The Smoky Cape Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast is available for those missing a real bed.
Bellingen
Blending historic charms with a hip food scene, Bellingen might be your new favorite town.
The groovy community of Bellingen, tucked into the patchwork hills of the Coffs Harbour hinterland, is an inspiring interlude just 20 minutes from the sea. There’s an area nearby known as “the Promised Land,” marked by swimming holes formed along the Never Never River (savant pianist David Helfgott from the movie Shine lives there). Time your trip around the Bellingen Growers Market, held the second and fourth Saturdays of the month. And at any time, hit the Old Butter Factory for local crafts and No. 5 Church Street, a cafe that serves delicious fish tacos, Bellingen Brewing Company beer and biodynamic buffalo gelato from a local farm. In the evening, the cafe hosts live bands such as Central Coast folk blues duo Original Sin.
Dorrigo National Park
At Dorrigo National Park, hike to Crystal Shower Falls, a cascade accessible from behind.
A half hour further inland from Bellingen, the Gondwana-era rainforests of Dorrigo National Park are known for their waterfalls as well as ancient flora and fauna. A 2.5-hour circuit reaches Tristiana and Crystal Shower falls — the latter features a cave behind it that hikers can access — along with vine-strangled trees, bromeliads and some 150 bird species, including bush turkeys and cheeky lyrebirds, which both dwell on the ground around the trail. The drive to Dorrigo National Park, along Waterfall Way, is worth the trip alone. You can glimpse several waterfalls through the campervan window. The Red Dirt Distillery is worth a stop for potato vodka, Ring of Fire chilli chutney and other liqueurs with flavors ranging from pistachio to ginger.
Nimbin
The Nimbin Rocks are volcanic remnants from the eruption of the Mount Warning Tweed Volcano.
Everyone has their opinion about the hippie community of Nimbin, but it’s a place travelers should visit at least once. The main drag is chockablock with muraled hemp clothing boutiques, herb shops and vegan food joints frequented by the tie-dye-wearing, bongo-playing crowd. Although illegal in the country, marijuana is the town’s main export. Hostel lovers should check out the Nimbin Rox YHA, a beautifully landscaped retreat high on a hill, featuring dorm rooms as well as higher-end yurts and campervan sites that face some of the area’s famous rock promontories. The road ahead to Byron, housing hidden intentional communities and retreat centers with names like Bird Song and Journey’s End, is the prettiest stretch of the trip.
Byron and Environs
The Roadhouse in Byron Bay makes some of the best fish tacos outside the Americas.
The health- and surf-conscious town of Byron Bay is a magnet for beach bums, yogis, shoppers and foodies. No visit is complete without a walk to the Cape Byron Lighthouse or a longboarding session (or lesson) at the Pass. Adventurous travelers can also kayak, skydive or appreciate Byron Bay from above on a hot air balloon ride. Between explorations, refuel at such beloved cafes as Top Shop or the Roadhouse, and also venture inland to Harvest for breakfast and Poinciana Cafe for a massive bacon burger on a tree-shaded patio in Mullumbimby. In the evening, the Treehouse, Woody’s Surf Shack and Stone & Wood Brewery are the best local haunts for a beer and live tunes. The Thursday Byron Farmers Market and fashion-forward Community Market, on the first Sunday of the month, are also not to be missed.
– Contributed by Serena Renner
Road Trip From Sydney to Byron Bay from Australia Things to Do